Tokyo studio shoot with Kayo

Canon 5D mkII 70-200mm f2.8L IS II lens iso 400 1/125 @ f5.6

This past December I was extremely fortunate to have the opportunity to work once again with one of my favorite models in Japan, Kayo Fantastic from Model Mayhem.

For this session we shot in the Force Studio in Edogawabashi.  This studio had a much darker theme compared to the previous studio we shot together in, which made it much easier to control the lighting. This worked out really well since we were going for a slightly edgier/sexier look for Kayo this time and I wanted to light her a little differently compared to our previous shoot together.

Our lighting for this session consisted mainly of 3 Nikon SB26 flashes triggered with Pocket Wizard Plus II tranceivers.  The light modifiers used were primarily the Westcott 43″ Apollo Orb and two Westcott Apollo Strip Softboxes. We also used a Gary Fong Lightsphere and a  Lumiquest Softbox III for a few setups.

There were several potted plants near a bench in the middle of the studio and to keep things simple we used this as our first set.

An SB26 with a CTO gel and a Stofen Omnibounce was used behind the plants for a background light.

The Westcott Apollo Orb was used as the main light and the two Strip lights were used on either side of Kayo  to help separate her from the background.

Canon 5D mkII 70-200mm f2.8L IS II lens iso 400 1/160 @ f5.6
Canon 5D mkII 70-200mm f2.8L IS II lens iso 400 1/125 @ f5.6

Next we went into some headshots against a wall on the other side of the studio. Used the Westcott Orb as Kayo’s main light, overpowering the existing window light.

An SB26 with a CTO gel and a grid was used to light the wall behind her.  Another SB26 was aimed at the back of her hair for a rim light.

Had a Vornado fan nearby to add movement to her hair.

Canon 5D mkII 70-200mm f2.8L IS II lens iso 400 1/160 @ f5.6
Canon 5D mkII 70-200mm f2.8L IS II lens iso 400 1/160 @ f5.6

Canon 5D mkII 70-200mm f2.8L IS II lens iso 400 1/160 @ f5.6

In one corner of the studio we found a set of prison bars.  This looked like it would be fun to work with but the space behind the bars was completely black. In order to give the shot some depth I knew we would need to light it somehow.

In the small corner behind the bars, we used a Nikon SB26 with a red gel and a Gary Fong lightsphere.  This lit both the background and rim lit the model in red.

Once Kayo had changed outfits, she found this great hairpiece to use which gave her a totally different look. We used one of the striplights for her main light, but positioned low in front of the bars and aimed up at her face to add a little more drama to the shot.

Canon 5D mkII 70-200mm f2.8L IS II lens iso 400 1/160 @ f4

After taking a couple of shots behind the bars, we then brought Kayo around to the front. There was a large window next to the bars which you can see in the photo below, and we did some natural light shots while still using the rear lights for background and rim light.

Canon 5D mkII 70-200mm f2.8L IS II lens iso 1600 1/125 @ f4 

Canon 5D mkII 70-200mm f2.8L IS II lens iso 1600 1/125 @ f4 

Since Kayo was now in front of the bars, the window light wrapped around her more, which greatly reduced the effect of her rim light.

Canon 5D mkII 70-200mm f2.8L IS II lens iso 1600 1/125 @ f4 
Canon 5D mkII 70-200mm f2.8L IS II lens iso 1600 1/125 @ f4 

To change up the lighting and go back to more of a glamour look, I added another SB26 to the lightstand behind the bars and aimed it towards Kayo.  I also swapped out the gel on the background light for one that was a little more red.

For her main light, we used another SB26 with a Lumiquest III Softbox.

Canon 5D mkII 70-200mm f2.8L IS II lens iso 400 1/125 @ f5.6
Canon 5D mkII 70-200mm f2.8L IS II lens iso 400 1/125 @ f5.6

While Kayo changed into her next look, I thought it would be nice to do a few more shots with the windows on this side of the studio since they had an interesting kind of high techy pattern on them.

A bare SB26 was set in the corner to act as a hair light.

Canon 5D mkII 70-200mm f2.8L IS II lens iso 800 1/160 @ f2.8 

We did a few shots with the window light as her main light, then switched to using the SB26 with a Lumiquest Softbox III.

Canon 5D mkII 70-200mm f2.8L IS II lens iso 800 1/160 @ f5.6

Canon 5D mkII 70-200mm f2.8L IS II lens iso 800 1/160 @ f5.6

Our final setup resulted in one of my favorite shots of the day and it worked out way better than I had originally planned.

This was a shot where we tried a combination of a fan and a length of red organza fabric wrapped around Kayo.  To be honest, I didn’t really have a solid image in mind when we started working on this set (that’s something I need to work on – getting a clearer idea of what I want to shoot BEFORE the shoot).  I only knew that I wanted to show fabric in motion, some mystery, and some sexiness without being too revealing.  I really have to thank Kayo for this one because she was extremely patient with me while I set everything up for this shot.

Although I had brought a small Vornado fan for the shoot, it wasn’t really strong enough to keep the fabric flying upward out of the frame like I had originally planned. We had to figure out a way to suspend the fabric above Kayo.  Ideally in a situation like this we would use a stand with a boom arm or an assistant. Since we did not have a boom arm available (there’s only so much lighting gear that I can bring when I travel), a bit of MacGyvering was needed.

Our solution was to use 2 ball bungies to strap a small light stand to the back of a chair to create an impromptu arm to which we could then clip the red fabric to:

Had to put some extra gear onto the chair itself to weigh it down so that it would not topple over onto Kayo.  Always think of your model’s safety when suspending objects above him/her.

To light this we used two Westcott Apollo Strip Softboxes positioned on either side of Kayo.  In the setup shot, you can see all that stuff in the background.  By bringing in the lights very close to the model and setting the power levels to 1/2 power (or maybe it was full power?), we were able to overpower the existing light in the studio and hide all of that in darkness.

So now that we had that setup, I positioned the fan so that it would add a little motion to the part of the fabric that was suspended.  If we had been lucky enough to have had an assistant, we could have had them to point the fan at the fabric and move the fan from side to side until we got just the right look.  Since it was just Kayo and myself that day, I would take a couple shots, adjust the fan position, shoot a couple more frames, move the fan again, etc.

Like I’ve said before, assistants are invaluable on a shoot. 🙂

Canon 5D mkII 70-200mm f2.8L IS II lens iso 100 1/160 @ f3.5

I also had Kayo shift her position slightly between shots so that we would get subtle differences in the feathering of the light across her form.

This shot was one of those where everything came together just right – the fan caught the fabric and made it ripple and Kayo’s hand pose created some shadows that added a sense of mystery to the image that I really liked.

Canon 5D mkII 70-200mm f2.8L IS II lens iso 100 1/160 @ f4

It was so much fun to work with Kayo again, I just wish that we had more than just 3 short hours to work together this time as there was so much more we could have done together.  Will just have to save the ideas until next time.

Studio headshots with Brittney, Part II – Making backgrounds

Sometimes all you need to create an interesting backdrop is a flash and a pile of bones.

During Brittney’s studio headshot session, we did a little experimenting with creating backgrounds on a plain white wall.

Since our lighting setup of a tabletopped softbox and the two gridded strip softboxes kept most of the light from hitting the back wall of the studio, the white wall was now a dark gray.

That meant that we could then take another flash and light the background in a different way from how we lit Brittney.  David Hobby of Strobist.com refers to this as “lighting on planes”.

In the film/video world when you want to put a pattern on a background wall, you would use what is called a “cookie” – a metal disc with a design cut out of it.  This is put in front of a focusable light that projects the design onto the wall, creating a pattern.

We were all out of cookies that day so to improvise, we used a Nikon SB26 with a set of barn doors to control the spill of light. We set it up facing the back wall and tried putting different things in front of it to try and create an interesting pattern.  Tried a lot of things – garment bags, lace material, plastic cups, plants, nothing really seemed to click.

Until we found the remains of a skeleton lying around the studio.

Don’t laugh, it actually worked out pretty well.  Skeletons should be a part of any well-equipped studio. 😉 
We suspended the skeleton from a light stand and aimed the flash through the ribcage. We then just played around with the positioning of the flash and the skeleton until we got an interesting pattern on the background behind the model.
If we wanted to, we could also have added color to the background pattern by putting a colored gel over the flash.  Now that I think about it, we also could have tried putting larger sheets of gels onto the skeleton itself, maybe in multiple colors and see if that would have produced a multi-colored background when the flash fired through it.  Something to experiment with on a future shoot.
So the next time you’re on a photoshoot and all you have is a blank wall behind your subject, try putting objects in front of your background light and see what happens.  You never know when you’ll end up with something cool.

Studio headshots with Brittney, Part I

Recently did some headshots with model Brittney Baker in the studio, as part of a collaboration with makeup artist Kahulani and local artist Ben Kikuyama.

Wanted to try a different lighting style this time.  For our main light, an Alien Bee AB800 in a medium softbox, we boomed it up overhead and pointed straight down at the model (what’s known as “tabletopping” the light).  Two AB800s in strip softboxes with grids on either side of Brittney were used to rim light her.

Since the main light was aimed straight down and the two strip softboxes had grids on them, we were able to keep most of the light away from the white walls of the studio, which made them go dark gray.

Canon 5D mkII 70-200mm f2.8L IS II lens iso100 1/160 @ f8
One of the things to be careful about when using the main light in this fashion is to make sure the model is not directly under the center of the softbox, but rather closer towards the rear edge.  This allows more of the light to wrap around the mask of the face.

Sorry for the crudeness of this drawing.  I’m not an artist. 😉

While we were shooting we noticed that sometimes depending on Brittney’s pose, the shadow under her nose would get really dark.  This is why having a very talented makeup artist on a photoshoot can really make a difference in the final images. As soon as we mentioned the shadow, Kat came up and adjusted Brittney’s makeup. I don’t know what she did exactly, or if she just waved a magic wand or something, all I know is that whatever she did worked.

Canon 5D mkII 70-200mm f2.8L IS II lens iso100 1/160 @ f8

Kat, you are just all kinds of awesome, you know that? 🙂

For some of the later shots, we also added a silver California Sunbounce Micro Mini reflector just below the bottom of the frame to help soften the shadows a bit more.

Canon 5D mkII 70-200mm f2.8L IS II lens iso100 1/160 @ f8
Canon 5D mkII 70-200mm f2.8L IS II lens iso100 1/160 @ f8
Canon 5D mkII 70-200mm f2.8L IS II lens iso100 1/160 @ f8

For these last few sets Brittney wore her hair down, so we added some CTO gels to the two strip lights to help highlight her hair.  We didn’t have enough gels to completely cover both strip lights, only about half of each, so the color difference is subdued a bit.

Canon 5D mkII 70-200mm f2.8L IS II lens iso100 1/160 @ f8

Canon 5D mkII 70-200mm f2.8L IS II lens iso100 1/160 @ f8

Canon 5D mkII 70-200mm f2.8L IS II lens iso100 1/160 @ f8

Canon 5D mkII 70-200mm f2.8L IS II lens iso100 1/160 @ f8

Part 2 of this post will illustrate how you can create interesting backgrounds using a flash and some not so ordinary household items.

International studio shoot with Irish

Canon 5D mkII  70-200m f2.8L IS II lens iso 100 1/160 @ f5.6

While in Tokyo this past Decemver, I had the opportunity to collaborate with a truly international team – model Irish Kashima from the Philippines, makeup artist Mai Shimura from Japan, and body painter Yilei Liu from Shanghai.

Mai was able to book us some time at the Zero Studio in Edogawabashi. This was my first time in this studio and I tried to plan out the lighting in a way that we could move quickly between setups and make the most of our time there.

Our first setup utilized an existing curtain of shiny material in the studio that was hung next to some windows.  Since there was a lot of natural light streaming in from the window,  I decided to start with a strobe setup to first overpower the ambient light, then quickly switch to a natural light setting so that we could get two different looks in one setting.

For this first setup, a Nikon SB26 with a CTO gel and a Pocket Wizard Plus II tranceiver was set up behind the curtain.  A ProKit Speedlight reflector was used to direct the light onto her hair.

The main light was a Nikon SB26 with a CTO gel and a ProKit Beauty Dish positioned to camera right. We also used a small Vornado fan to add a little lift to the model’s hair.

I set the camera to Tungsten white balance and did a series of headshots.  Also added a fan to give a little lift to her hair.  In addition, Yilei held a silver California Sunbounce Micro Mini to bounce some of the main light back as fill.

Canon 5D mkII  70-200m f2.8L IS II lens iso 200 1/160 @ f4

We started adding some accessories to Irish, and since we needed Yilei to help with other things, he wasn’t able to hold the reflector anymore.  I setup another SB26 on low power right next to my camera to use as a fill light instead of relying on the reflector.

The reason that I used the CTO gels and tungsten white balance for this first set was so that the incoming window light would [hopefully] turn the background blue.  You can kind of see it in the reflective surfaces of the curtain behind Irish in the above headshot.  It didn’t translate so well tothe back wall however, so I added another SB26 behind Irish and put a blue gel/Stofen Omnibounce on it to color the wall behind her.

 Canon 5D mkII  70-200m f2.8L IS II lens iso 100 1/160 @ f5.6

Canon 5D mkII  70-200m f2.8L IS II lens iso 100 1/160 @ f5.6


To quickly transition into our natural light look, the Pocket Wizards were turned off so that the strobes would not fire.  The camera white balance was set to cloudy white balance/aperture priority mode.

Canon 5D mkII  70-200m f2.8L IS II lens iso 400 1/125 @ f2.8

Canon 5D mkII  70-200m f2.8L IS II lens iso 400 1/80 @ f2.8

Moving to our second setup, we hung a red satin bedsheet on a backdrop stand.

You can find satin sheet sets like this at Ross’s Dress for Less for around $25.  Didn’t have a fabric steamer available so to help hide some of the wrinkles in the sheet, we put a fan behind it to add some movement to the fabric.

While we were testing, the Vornado turned out to be a little stronger than the white standing fan, so we swapped them around and used the Vornado in the back, with Yilei holding it and moving it from side to side to keep the bedsheet constantly in motion.

Mai adjusted Irish’s lipstick to match the color of the sheet and we started shooting this look.
For lighting we used just one SB26 in a Westcott Apollo Orb Softbox to camera left.

Canon 5D mkII  70-200m f2.8L IS II lens iso 100 1/160 @ f2.8

We tried several variations on this, including wrapping one of the bedsheets around Irish as sort of an impromptu evening gown.

Canon 5D mkII  70-200m f2.8L IS II lens iso 100 1/160 @ f2.8

Canon 5D mkII  70-200m f2.8L IS II lens iso 100 1/160 @ f2.8

Found a blue muslin backdrop in the studio and wanted to try something different instead of simply hanging it.  I laid it out on the floor next to a ledge where I could get on top of for an elevated shot. We didn’t have a ladder and the ceilings were pretty low, so I switched out the lens for the 24-105mm f4L IS so that we could get some full length shots.

We used some blue and pink organza fabric that I had brought and Mai wrapped them around our model.

Canon 5D mkII  24-105mm f4L IS lens iso 200 1/160 @ f4

Tried out one of the Dave Hill B/W presets in Lightroom and I kinda like what it did.  Always fun to experiment with new things.

Canon 5D mkII  24-105mm f4L IS lens iso 200 1/160 @ f4

While we were shooting these, Yilei did some sketching on a whiteboard and suggested the idea of making Irish into a mermaid using some red organza fabric.

This is why it’s great to work with a team.  A lot of times ideas will come up during a shoot that you never even thought of.

We used the Westcott Orb Softbox again as our main light, and propped the Sunbounce against the ledge I was standing on to add some fill.

Canon 5D mkII  24-105mm f4L IS lens iso 800 1/160 @ f4

It took a while to get the pose and the fabric to look right.  I tried to emulate a water look in post, since we probably would not have been allowed to flood the studio floor with water.


Canon 5D mkII  24-105mm f4L IS lens iso 800 1/160 @ f4

For our last look, Mai and Yilei wanted to experiment with body paint.  The idea was to paint a dragon onto Irish’s back, then drip some gold paint over it.  It was something new and interesting to try, as I had never done a bodypaint shoot yet.

To light this, I wanted to put Irish up against a black backdrop, which we did not have.  Since the studio walls were all painted white, I knew we had to really overpower the ambient light with flash in order to make the background as dark as possible.

We setup as far away from the back wall as we possibly could.  2 SB26s in Westcott Apollo Strip Softboxes were setup to light Irish from either side.  The flashes on either 1/2 or full power and positioned really close to the model, just out of frame.  This made the white wall in the background go down to a very dark grey, which we could then tweak a little darker in post.

Canon 5D mkII  70-200mm f2.8L IS II lens iso 100 1/160 @ f5.6

Canon 5D mkII  70-200mm f2.8L IS II lens iso 100 1/160 @ f5.6

For the last few shots, Mai and Yilei added some gold paint dripping down the dragon.  The side-lighting helped bring out the texture of the paint.

Canon 5D mkII  70-200mm f2.8L IS II lens iso 100 1/160 @ f5.6

Canon 5D mkII  70-200mm f2.8L IS II lens iso 100 1/160 @ f6.3
Wish I could have made it look more sparkly (there were tiny flecks of gold in the paint that they used). Guess I’ll need to study up more on how to light bodypainted models…

Made a short video of the shoot with lighting info and diagrams:

Sunset shoot with Valerie – working with the Pocket Wizard Flex TT1

Canon 5D mkII 70-200mm f2.8L IS II lens iso 200 1/250 @ f2.8

After we left the studio, we headed out with model Valerie Wessel to the west side of Maui to try to catch the sunset.  At first we were planning to go to 505 Front Street in Lahaina, since the water is usually pretty calm there.  While driving along the coast however, we came across this old fallen tree on the side of the road that was halfway in the water and I thought it would make for some interesting photos. Besides, it kinda sucks these days that you have to pay for parking nearly everywhere in Lahaina.

We started on top of the fallen tree with the model’s back towards the sun.  Our lighting was a WL1600 with a 7″ reflector, powered by the Vagabond Mini Lithium and triggered with the Pocket Wizard Flex TT1 trigger.

PocketWizard MiniTT1 Radio Transmitter for Canon TTL Flashes and Digital SLR Cameras

We just got the Pocket Wizard Flex TT1transmitter and TT5 tranceiver a few months ago and have been using them on a few wedding shoots to trigger an off-camera strobe. One of the things I like about the TT1 is the lower profile it has on the camera as opposed to the Plus II tranceivers.

PocketWizard PWP-TR 801-125 PLUS II Transceiver (Black)PocketWizard MiniTT1 Radio Transmitter for Canon TTL Flashes and Digital SLR Cameras

Another nice feature of the TT1 is the ability to do what is called HyperSync, which allows you to exceed the native flash sync speed of the camera when using a non-Canon flash such as the WL1600.  The TT1 comes with software that runs on PC or Mac and lets you plug in the TT1 via USB and tweak the internal settings of the TT1 so that you can fine tune this ability to your particular camera/flash combination.

In this case I was using a Canon 5D mkII which has a sync speed of 1/160.  The Hypersync feature of the TT1 allowed us to crank the shutter speed up to 1/500, with the only catch being that the WL1600 had to be set at full power.  Dropping the power level of the flash down meant we had to back down our shutter speed to 1/250.  You can find out more about the TT1 and hypersync on this blog by Adam Swords.

Couple of drawbacks of the Flex TT1/TT5. First the build quality of the hotshoe mount blows chunks is relatively poor. The TT1 is designed to mount in your camera’s hotshoe, then you have the option to have a flash mounted on top of the TT1.

Although the hotshoe on top of the TT1 is sturdy metal, the foot of the TT1 that slides into your camera’s hotshoe is made of plastic.  Freakin’ plastic. Mounting a Canon 580 EX II flash on top of the TT1 stresses the plastic foot to the point where it will eventually snap off.  Which actually happened to me during a wedding the day after I had received the unit.

Luckily I was able to order a replacement hotshoe mount (actually bought several ’cause I just KNOW it’s going to wind up breaking on me again) and it is relatively easy to replace.   Directions for how repair the hotshoe foot on the Pocket Wizard Flex TT5. The procedure for the TT1 is roughly the same.

The second problem has to do with range.  When using the TT1 and TT5 with a Canon580EX or EXII flash, you are limited to a range of about 20-30 feet.  Anything past that and the flash triggers intermittently.  Pocket Wizard says this has to do with RF interference generated by those particular flash models.  Some of the solutions they suggest are:

1. Use the the AC5 RF Soft shield on your flash.  I don’t care for this since it blocks access to the flash controls and makes the flash look like a saggy sock puppet.
2. Use the AC7 RF Hard shield on your flash.  I didn’t go this route either because the design of the AC7 hard shield prevents you from using an external battery pack with the flash.  What the hell were they thinking?!?!
3. Use an older model Canon flash, like the 550EX.  (This is what I’ve been doing lately when using the TT1 at weddings)

Sorry for the rant, I got sidetracked for a minute there.  Ok, back to the shoot.

Using the TT1 and a shutter speed of 1/500 while firing the WL1600 at full power allowed us to easily overpower the afternoon sun.

Canon 5D mkII 70-200mm f2.8L IS II lens iso 100 1/500 @ f11

Just for kicks, I also wanted to try out the RadioPopper triggers so that we could experiment with what could be done with small flashes in this setting.  We rigged up a painter’s pole with a Canon 580EX flash and the Radiopoppers and fired off a few shots.

Canon 5D mkII 70-200mm f2.8L IS II lens iso 100 1/1000 @ f8

Had to fix a little underexposure in Lightroom, but I liked the effect that we got with it.  Having the 580EX on the painter’s pole really made a difference as it was easier to get the light up higher and closer to the model for a better lighting angle than we could get with the WL1600 on the standard light stand.

To do some wide scenic shots we turned Valerie around and shot from the other side of the tree.  This time we used the sun as her main light and filled in the shadow areas with a silver California Sunbounce Mini reflector held by Ronald.  Use a circular polarizer filter on the lens to pull in more detail in the sky.

Canon 5D mkII 70-200mm f2.8L IS II lens iso 100 1/160 @ f5.6

We then moved to the branches of the tree that were half submerged in the water.  We used the reflected light of the Sunbounce as Valerie’s main light and used the sun as her rim light. I swapped out the circular polarizer for a neutral density filter so that I could shoot with the aperture wide open and blur the background.  Used a faster shutter speed to freeze the water splash.
Canon 5D mkII 70-200mm f2.8L IS II lens iso 400 1/1250 @ f2.8

For this image I needed a higher camera angle to put the ocean completely behind the model so I stood on two of the larger branches of the fallen tree, trying to keep my balance and not drop the camera into the surf.  Probably should rethink my no-camera strap policy when shooting in these kinds of environments.
Also need to send props out to both Ronald and Valerie for this shot.  Ron for being willing to get completely soaked in the surf as he got the reflector in close for the best lighting.  Valerie for her ability to hold the pose and expression steadily and patiently as wave after wave crashed into her from behind while waiting for me to get the timing of the shot right.
For sunset, Valerie changed back into the blue dress that she had worn in the studio.  We used the WL1600 light  and the Flex TT1 trigger for the rest of these shots, this time adding a beauty dish to the mix.
Canon 5D mkII 70-200mm f2.8L IS II lens iso 400 1/250 @ f8

Had Valerie whip the dress around a bit to add some movement to the image.
 Canon 5D mkII 70-200mm f2.8L IS II lens iso 400 1/500 @ f8

The original plan we had for going to 505 Front Street was so that we could get the model almost neck deep into the calm water and do a headshot to show off the makeup against the sunset.  Since by now it was too late to change locations, and the surf conditions by the tree prevented us from attempting that particular idea, we compromised and did an implied nude shot against the sky.

Since Valerie was wearing a nude-colored swimsuit underneath the dress, this was relatively quick to set up. We had her pull the top of the dress down to around her waist and adjusted the placement of her arms and the angle of the lighting to hide the swimsuit top in the shadows of this image.

  Canon 5D mkII 70-200mm f2.8L IS II lens iso 400 1/250 @ f5.6

The wind started to pick up which made for some nice dynamic images towards the end of our shoot together.
 Canon 5D mkII 70-200mm f2.8L IS II lens iso 400 1/250 @ f5.6

Studio shoot with Brittney & Valerie / Background Lighting

Canon 5d mk II 70-200 f2.8L IS II iso 100 1/160@f8

Last month we had the opportunity to work with two Maui models – Brittney Baker and Valerie Wessel.  Makeup and hair was done by Kahulani and Ronald assisted us on this shoot.

A white wall can be a very versatile background – it can be white, gray, dark gray, black, or almost any color you can think of as long as you control the light that falls on it.  For this entire series in the studio, the background was the same white wall.  All we did was change the lighting on it.

We began with a white background.  We lit a white seamless backdrop similar to the setup we did last year.

Canon 5d mk II 70-200 f2.8L IS II iso 100 1/160@f8

The main light was an AB800 with a 5 ft Photoflex Octodome to camera left.  We used a silver California Sunbounce Mini reflector on the right for fill.  2 AB800s with umbrellas were used to light the back wall about 1 stop over the main light to make it an even white.  We did a few full length shots, then switched to our next lighting setup.

To drop the color of the background down to gray, we turned off the two AB800s in the back. The Octodome was switched out for a WL1600 with a beauty dish boomed above the model.  The silver reflector was moved to the front and below the model to bounce light from the beauty dish back into the model. We added an AB800 with a small gridded strip softbox and a 1/8 CTO gel to edge light her.  I darkened the edges slightly in Lightroom to put more emphasis on the model.

Canon 5d mk II 70-200 f2.8L IS II iso 100 1/160@f8

Brittney is a great model to work with – not only does she know how to rock her poses, she has a look that is just wonderful to photograph.

Canon 5d mk II 70-200 f2.8L IS II iso 100 1/160@f8

If you look closely at the catchlights in her eyes, you’ll see the position of the beauty dish and the reflector below.  There’s one thing to be careful about when you have a light boomed above the model.  Actually, there’s two things.

First, always have sandbags on your lightstands so that they don’t fall over and whack your model’s head.  Your model will NOT be happy if it does.  And no, that did NOT happen on this shoot. 🙂

Second thing is to study the model’s eyes.  Some models have deeper set eyes and if you have the light too directly above them you’ll start to get shadows in the eye sockets, which isn’t very flattering.  If that happens, start moving the light towards the front of the model’s face while taking a few test shots until you can start to see the catchlights in the eyes.

For Brittney’s next outfit, we went with more of a Hollywood glamour lighting style.

Canon 5d mk II 70-200 f2.8L IS II iso 100 1/160@f8

We used an AB800 with a gridded small strip softbox and a 1/8 CTO gel up above the back of the model to light up her hair.  We took away the beauty dish light and lit the front of the model using 2 AB800s – one with a gridded medium softbox for fill and one with a 7″ reflector and a 10 degree gridspot which was aimed at the model’s face.   The fill light was set to about 1 stop under the gridspot light.

Because we were using grids on the light modifiers to control the directions of light, we were able to keep most of the lights from hitting the background, which made the white wall go almost completely black.

Don’t have the exact lighting measurements because I didn’t have my light meter that day so we had to eyeball it. The overall effect we wanted to achieve with this lighting setup was a more dramatic look with her face being the brightest part of the image, in order to draw the viewer’s eye to it.

One of the main difficulties of doing this type of lighting is trying to aim the light that has the 10 degree gridspot on it.  The gridspot turns the light into a very narrow beam that has to constantly be re-aimed at the model’s face as she moves from pose to pose.  Miss it by just a little bit and her face will not have as much impact.  This is one of those times when you REALLY need to have an assistant.

Canon 5d mk II 70-200 f2.8L IS II iso 100 1/160@f8

An added benefit of keeping the fill light off of the background and feathering the light (meaning not aiming the fill light directly at the model, but rather aiming it so that the light skimmed across her front), was that the shadows that it created helped define the folds of the dress which made it look more interesting.

Canon 5d mk II 70-200 f2.8L IS II iso 100 1/160@f8

When we started photographing Valerie in her blue dress the folds of her dress really stood out in this lighting setup.

Canon 5d mk II 70-200 f2.8L IS II iso 100 1/160@f8

Valerie is a very theatrical model, and at one point started playing around with some very dramatic poses.  To match the lighting to what she was doing, we used 2 AB800s with gridded strip softboxes for her edge lights and turned off the gridspotted AB800.  We pulled the softbox fill light off of the lightstand and lit her from underneath as her main light.  This resulted in a more evil look, similar to that of old hollywood monster movies.
Since there was very little light hitting the background wall, we were then able to add a little mood to the image by putting a splash of color to it using a Nikon SB26 on 1/16th power and a red gel.  We gaffer-taped a set of small barndoors to the SB26 to help control the amount of colored light hitting the wall.  We tried different power levels on the SB26 until we got the right amount of color intensity on the background.

A little smoke and lightning effects helped make the final image.

Canon 5d mk II 70-200 f2.8L IS II iso 100 1/160@f8

For our final set in the studio before heading out to location, we went back to a gray background to get setup for a couple of shots of both Brittney and Valerie together.

Lighting for these final studio shots was with the AB800 and Photoflex Octodome for the main light and the two AB800 striplights. Since there was no grid on the Octodome, the light traveled past the models to light up the background a little, making it go back up to gray. While Kahulani put the finishing touches on Valerie, we did a few tests in this light with Brittney in another outfit.

 Canon 5d mk II 70-200 f2.8L IS II iso 100 1/160@f8


Canon 5d mk II 70-200 f2.8L IS II iso 100 1/160@f8

We then brought Valerie back on for our final set.

Canon 5d mk II 70-200 f2.8L IS II iso 100 1/160@f8

These two really photograph well together. There’s a nice contrast of calm, collected seriousness from Brittney and the wacky playfulness of Valerie.  They probably could start in their own TV sitcom someday.

Canon 5d mk II 70-200 f2.8L IS II iso 100 1/160@f8

Working with Radiopoppers again

Canon 5D mkII 70-200 f2.8L IS II lens iso 800 1/200@f4

A few weekends ago I did a quick test session with model Jenni Sosnow from Model Mayhem. I mainly wanted to test out my Radiopopper PX triggers which I hadn’t used in a while.

The reason why I haven’t been using the Radiopoppers lately is for a couple of reasons.  First of all, the bracket used to mount the receiver to the front of the flash is made of plastic.

I’ve gone through about 2 or 3 of them already because the hotshoe mount of the baseplate consists of two teeny little tabs of plastic that have a tendency to crack.  Probably doesn’t help that I’m rough on my gear to begin with, but I really wish they would make a stronger version.

Another reason is storage.  The plastic mount with the trigger adds a lot of bulk to the 580, making it difficult to store in my camera bag if I want to store the whole assembly together.

I’ve been looking for a container that lets me store the trigger, 2 receivers and 2 sets of the mounts separately from the flash.  I recently came across the Pelican 1060 case which seems to fit the bill, although it is a little bulky.

Pelican 1060-025-100 Micro Case with Clear Lid and Carabineer (Black)

The final reason is battery life.  The Radiopoppers have a built in battery level indicator (1-10) on their lcd display, and I’ve found that anytime I’ve tried using batteries less than “7” on the scale, it didn’t always trigger the flashes reliably. I’ve settled on using Energizer lithium AAA batteries, and being very careful to take them out of the Radiopoppers if I’m not going to use them for a while (I had left some Duracell AAA batteries in there for a couple of months one time and had one leak battery acid all over the entire compartment).

For this test session with Jenni, I used a Canon 5D mkII and a 580EX II flash on a stand with a Radiopopper receiver and modified with a small Photoflex LiteDome. I triggered this via a 580EX on camera with a Radiopopper trigger. On this day it was overcast, so I mainly used this setup to add some directionality to the existing flat lighting.

I had the softbox in very close, just out of frame (the second flash that you see in this behind the scenes shot was not used in the final image).  Raised it up as high as it could go so that I could tilt the light down and get close to a Rembrandt style of light falling across her face.
Shot this in aperture-priority mode with -1 exposure compensation to darken the surrounding area a little. By using the softbox in close and slightly overpowering the ambient light, I was able to darken the shadows below her chin to help shape her face for the look that we wanted.
Canon 5D mkII 70-200 f2.8L IS II lens iso 200 1/800@f2.8

Riding the Rocket – Military Shoot Part II

For one of our setups at the Naval Air Museum, we did a take on the classic scene from the movie  “Dr. Strangelove” where Major Kong rides the atomic bomb as it’s dropped from the bomber.

We had neither the budget nor the equipment required to actually suspend a rocket and a model safely in midair so we had to do a lot of improvising with what we had.

The bomb (actually a target drone) was mounted on a cart so that it could be wheeled around easily. We had to figure out how to shoot and light it so that a minimum of post-production work would have to be done.

We started by pointed the rocket into the wind so that when the model was in position on the rocket, the wind would be blowing her hair out behind her.

After shooting it from several different vantage points, we settled on an angle not completely sideways and not completely straight on to the camera, but just enough off center so that you can tell it’s a rocket.  Shooting from a low angle would put the model against the blue sky, and make it easier to take out the buildings in the distance behind the rocket.

Had to lie flat on the ground to get this camera angle.  When you are looking at a scene and are trying to figure out the best angle to shoot it at, don’t forget to look at the scene from different heights as well. Get down low on the ground or climb up on a ladder or something.  You never know when you’ll stumble across a really cool shooting angle when you change the height of where you position the camera.

A few test frames revealed that the undercarriage of the rocket body was a little dark.  To help sell the illusion of the rocket flying through the sky, we laid out the white material of a  California Sunbounce Sunswatter on the ground in front of the rocket to bounce some sunlight into the shadow areas.

We used a WL1600 with a beauty dish for the main light with the sun as our hairlight. To help put more of a rim light on the model (and simulate the glow from the rocket engine) a second light was added to the scene – an AB800 with a 7″ reflector positioned near the tail of the rocket.

While the model was getting her makeup touched up, I shot some background plates of the clouds in the sky that I would later composite behind the model to make it look like she was soaring through the air.

I used a small aperture, around f11, added a ND filter so that I could set the camera to a very slow shutter speed and panned the camera across the sky while pressing the shutter button.  It took several tries until I got the right blend of blurred clouds and sky.


Once Alyssa was ready, we started shooting different poses on the rocket until we got a couple of good shots to work with.

One of the final composites:

Alyssa and Alana – Military shoot Pt I

Canon 5D mk II 70-200 f2.8L IS II iso200 1/160@f4

Took the first flight over to Oahu on Easter Sunday to meet up with Chaz from After6Media for another joint shoot at the Naval Air Museum at Barbers Point on Oahu.

This time our models were Alyssa and Alana and our makeup artists were Chastity and Sarah.

The Naval Air Museum staff was very helpful with this shoot, doing everything from moving and positioning vehicles to holding lightstands and reflectors.  They even helped to instruct our models on the proper holding and use of the many firearms we had access to.  They really made the photoshoot go smoothly.

Canon 5D mk II 70-200 f2.8L IS II iso200 1/160@f2.8

Started out with Alana and a rocket launcher.  We used a California Sunbounce SunSwatter to diffuse the sunlight and a WL1600 with a beauty dish for the main light. We actually had two of the 1600s set up, but found that one was enough.

Our next set was on a tank named “The Duke”.

Canon 5D mk II 70-200 f2.8L IS II iso200 1/160@f5.6

For a lot of these shots also I used a circular polarizer and an ND filter on the lens to help darken the sky.

Canon 5D mk II 24-105 f4L IS iso200 1/160@f2.8

The wind was doing amazing things with Alana’s hair.  Kinda distracted me though – I should have also done a wide shot showing more of the turret, but didn’t think about it at the time.

Both Chaz and I had a lot of our own concepts to shoot, so he primarily worked with Alana on this day while I worked with Alyssa.

Alyssa has been studying acrobatic silk work and the tank gave us a great opportunity to put her skills to work.

 Once she got the silk set up she started rocking the shoot.

Canon 5D mk II 70-200 f2.8L IS II iso200 1/160@f4

The wind was blowing quite a bit (the location is on an active airfield after all), but amazingly Alyssa was able to position herself so that we could get the shots we wanted.

Canon 5D mk II 70-200 f2.8L IS II iso200 1/160@f4

We used the WL1600/Beauty Dish again to fill in the harsh shadows.  One thing about the WL1600s – they are DURABLE.  The wind actually knocked the lightstand over while we were at the tank, denting the beauty dish and shattering the flashtube.  I figured the light was completely trashed.  When I got back to Maui however, I replaced the flashtube and tested it and amazingly the WL1600 is still working!

Alyssa is just fearless when it comes to posing – “Want me to hang from a tank turret holding a rifle? Suuuuure!  How about if I do it inverted?”.

Canon 5D mk II 70-200 f2.8L IS II iso200 1/80@f2.8

We worked with one of the Navy jets next. Used the WL1600 with a 7″ reflector for the main and an AB800 with the beauty dish for fill.  By this time the sun was a little lower in the sky so that we could use it as a hairlight.

Canon 5D mk II 70-200 f2.8L IS II iso200 1/160@f5.6

Played around a bit with the positioning and the various signage on the plane.

Canon 5D mk II 70-200 f2.8L IS II iso200 1/160@f7.1

We tried several variations of outfits.  I think the red worked out the best. Red, white & blue – a future Navy recruiting poster maybe?

Canon 5D mk II 70-200 f2.8L IS II iso200 1/125@f5.6

We also tried a few shots on top of one of the jets where Alyssa wrapped a silk around her body and let the wind blow through it.  Since she was pretty high up, I couldn’t get exactly the right camera angle and placement of the light I was looking for.  Something to maybe save for the next shoot.

 Canon 7D 24-105 f4L IS iso200 1/250@f5.6

Did some playful shots as well.  Alyssa is great with expressions like this.  Of course, we had a bit of a run in with security right after we took this shot.

Canon 7D 24-105 f4L IS iso200 1/250@f5.6

Also did some shots with Alyssa and Alana together.

 Canon 7D 24-105 f4L IS iso200 1/250@f5.6

 Canon 7D 24-105 f4L IS iso200 1/250@f5.6

Canon 7D 24-105 f4L IS iso200 1/200@f5.6

We ended up at the Huey for some final shots. The image stabilization on the 24-105 f4L IS lens is pretty darned good – this was handheld at 1/15th shutter speed.

Canon 7D 24-105 f4L IS iso200 1/15@f5.6

We then wrapped up and headed back to the airport to catch the last flight back to Maui.

Anyone that tells you that being a model is easy – that’s a load of bullpucky.  Dehydrating in the hot sun, posing in the wind, hanging from silks, balancing on airplanes, these girls worked their butts off that day so that we could get some cool shots.  Mahalos to our models Alyssa and Alana, our makeup artists Sarah and Chastity and the staff at the Naval Air Museum for another awesome shoot!

Alyssa and Alana – Old bridge shoot

Kahulani, Ronald and I met up with models Alyssa and Alana for another shoot, this time in the late afternoon at the old train bridge in Wailuku.

Since we had three photographers this time, we planned to do two different lighting setups in separate areas so that we could all be shooting at the same time. Due to time constraints and the high winds we experienced that day, we ended up doing just one lighting setup and rotating the photographers and models through that.

While we were setting up our lighting at the location, Alyssa was already coming up with ideas I never even thought of doing at this location. Since our lighting was setup in the other arch from where she started doing these poses, we ended up shooting this with just natural light.  The sun had just gone below the mountains behind our location, but there was still enough light from the sky coming down so give her a soft rim light.  Shot it with the 85mm for a shallow DOF to pull the attention to Alyssa and also to blur out the fencing way in the background.

 Canon 5D mkII 85mm f1.2L iso400 1/640@f2.0

It was really windy at this location in the early evening and it stirred up a lot of dust.  It seemed to calm down a bit when we first got there so I thought “maaaaaaybe I could get away with putting up the Octodome if I braced the edge of it against one of the walls”.

Big Mistake.

As soon as I set it up, the wind picked up again and started whipping the Octodome around in every direction EXCEPT the one we wanted.

So then I tried switching to a medium softbox.  Of course the wind just laughed at me and said “Dude, don’t even THINK about it”.

Soooo we finally went to the beauty dish which seemed to hold up pretty well.

Yeah I know, I know. I shoulda just started with the darn dish in the first place.
I’m dense like that sometimes.
So here is the lighting setup.  If you look at the photo at the very beginning of this post, you’ll see that each wall has two archways. About the third wall in, one of the openings is sealed up. We set up in this archway, with the sealed wall behind as a backdrop.

Our main light was an Alien Bee 800 and beauty dish setup in front of the archways off to the right about 45 degrees. Behind the archway wall are 4 more lights – another AB800 and 3 Nikon SB26s. One of the SB26 flashes was used to light the back wall and the rest of the lights were setup to rim light the models and also to light the ground behind them.




This is the view from behind showing one of the rim lights- the AB800. If you look past the wall off to the left, you can see about where we placed the main beauty dish light.

Here Ronald is setting up one of the SB26 flashes on a lightstand as a rim light.  There is one more SB26 on the ground that has a CTO gel on it to add some warmth light to the ground behind the models.

Another angle (shot from the archway where the models were standing) showing the AB800 rim light and also the third SB26 which is aimed at the wall. This third SB26 was gelled to add color to the background.

All these lights were mostly triggered with Pocket Wizards.  The SB26 on the ground didn’t have one attached (ran out of Pocket Wizards) so it was set to trigger optically instead. 

It was starting to get dark by this time, so we had to hurry. For the first look, we used a dark blue gel to light the wall behind the arch. If you look closely at the background light, you’ll see a diagonal shaft of light below the blue – that was a happy accident – because the blue gel didn’t quite cover the flash head completely.


 Canon 5D mkII 85mm f1.2L iso200 1/160@f7.1

I’d be lying if I said we meant to do that.  Sometimes things happen and it’s best to just roll with it.  Especially when you’re rushing to get the shots done before the wind covers your models in dirt.

Canon 5D mkII 85mm f1.2L iso200 1/160@f7.1

For the second look, we swapped out the blue gel with a red gel for the background.  This time we were able to fully cover the flash head with the red gel for a more solid background color.

 Canon 5D mkII 85mm f1.2L iso200 1/160@f7.1

 Canon 5D mkII 85mm f1.2L iso200 1/160@f7.1

Canon 5D mkII 85mm f1.2L iso200 1/160@f7.1

Canon 5D mkII 85mm f1.2L iso200 1/160@f7.1
 Had some more ideas I wanted to try out at this location, but will have to save them for another time.